Iran
Villagers have taken it upon themselves to maintain quarantine in the countryside towns of Divanderreh. Photo: Jabar Dastbaz / Rudaw English
DIVANDERREH, Iran — Spring's arrival in Iran normally brings joy, with people travelling the length and breadth of their country to celebrate the ancient festival of Newroz with their families and relatives. It's a time when they can't wait to escape the city and take a vacation to the country. But this year, with the arrival of a deadly strain of coronavirus, their extended vacation has lapsed into a nightmare.
Ignoring warnings from authorities, 8.5 million people took to the roads to travel for the Newroz holiday. Now, in western Iran’s Kurdistan province – which has seen the highest death rate in the country – suspicions have taken hold as local are wary that the arrival of travelers could bring the kiss of death.
"I used to work as a street vendor in the Tehran metro. It's a tough job, but I used to make a good profit," says Sardar Fathi. I meet him sitting on the doorstep of his parents' home in the city of Divanderreh. He grew up here, and returned as soon as the outbreak hit the capital. As we are chatting, the village mosque's loudspeaker interrupts, blaring a public service announcement: "Please return to your own homes. All guests should leave as soon as possible to protect the people of the village from the coronavirus." Before it can finish, Fathi angrily throws his cigarettes to the ground, saying "they just don't want us stay here."
His 41 years have brought him two children, a head of white hair, and enough savings for him to return to his parents house to wait out the lockdown back in the city – though he hasn't a clue how long that will be.
"After the corona crisis began, the metro stations were shut down. Thousands like me are jobless... so I decided to return to our village," he says, resentfully, lighting a second cigarette.
Newroz, the celebration of spring, is a time for being outdoors, appreciating nature's green return. At this time of year it's typical for people to drive up to the countryside and join the villagers for a picnic. Strangers become like family. But the outbreak of the coronavirus has turned even family into strangers.
"But the reception we received from our family was cold," Fathi says with a wry laughter, puffing smoke from his cigarette. The town, too, has lost its welcoming ambience. No one dares to venture outside. Locals say their villages have never been as empty as they are now. Typically at this time of year, people are out celebrating Newroz in their colorful traditional costumes. "This year, the only voices you hear are hens and roosters. Nobody visits each other, practicing the social distancing," Fathi told Rudaw English.
Across villages like this one, guests are politely asked to leave and spend their Newroz holidays elsewhere amid the deadly outbreak of the coronavirus that has devastated Iran. Over 60,000 have been infected with the virus, and as of April 6, the toll stood at 3,739 dead.
Worldwide, the virus has now claimed over 70,000 lives, affected more than 1.2 million people, and brought the global economy screeching to a halt. The regional epicenter of the pandemic, Iran continues to battle a rising case toll. Since the outbreak of the pandemic, 30 people in Divanderreh have have been diagnosed with COVID-19. Four have died. In a small village, that's enough to scare people.
At the entrance of the villages, an unfamiliar sight has become common as of late; banners – some printed, some painted – bear messages of deterrence. One reads: "We are a hospitable people, but unfortunately, we cannot welcome you during this Newroz holiday."
Fifteen kilometers west of Divanderreh, a few men have blocked the main road to the village of Gulana with their dump trucks to prevent the entry of non-locals. Ata Khalid, 45, one of Gulana's self-appointed guardians, removes the scarf cover his face from the dust gales billowing off the the backs of sheep as they walk past freely.
"We are afraid that they may infect us with the virus," he told Rudaw English.
"Two hundred families live in this village. They all raise livestock, have sheep and do farming," Khalid said, noting that "there are hundreds of people from this village who live in other cities of Kurdistan [province] and Tehran have recently returned to the village fearing corona."
"It is true that they have returned to their properties, have their own houses or returned to their parents' houses, we are fearful that they might have contracted the virus since they were in Tehran and other cities."
"We are calling on them to go back to where they came from. We just do not want them get us infected."
After receiving their permission to pass, I started to walk into the village. Only the main road was paved with cement; the alleys and side roads are simply dirt paths. A half day's drive from the nearest major city, the Saral area sprawls over the mountains west of Divanderreh, with 43 villages dotting the pastoral countryside.
Divanderreh's mayor told Rudaw English that until now, the city and surrounding villages have not confirmed any cases of COVID-19. But fear grips residents who say the area is ill-equipped to handle a future outbreak.
Ako, a 27 year old man standing guard alongside fellow villagers, tells me: "We suffer from lack of basic services. In our village, where 1,000 people live, there is just one basic pharmacy, so we are very panicked." If one person contracts the coronavirus among us, they must take them to the provincial capital, Sanandaj, as Divanderreh's hospitals are packed with patients.
"We never want to let our people get infected with the virus and contract the virus from those who have it. We do not let other people mingle with us," Ako told Rudaw English.
As dusk falls, some of the shepherds return home.
As they near the village, only bleats and the ring of bells around sheep necks can be heard.
The village sentries intend to keep their watch until it seems that the pandemic has passed. "What really worries us is the return of the people from the urban areas to the villages," Mohammed Ayazi, said. He acknowledged they have no legal mandate to keep anyone out, but it's all they feel they can do.
"There is strong social relationship among villagers, and that's what makes us worry. If someone get diagnosed with corona, many others will get infected, and it can't be avoided," Ayazi said.
The spokesperson of Kurdistan Medical University in Sanandaj, told Rudaw English that a total of 550 people have contracted the virus across the province as of Thursday.
Translated by Zhelwan Z. Wali
Edited by Shawn Carrié
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