ERBIL, Kurdistan Region — It’s not easy coming to a foreign place and starting your first job. Let me tell you because I know from experience. As an American, coming to Kurdistan in Iraq after graduating from college in December 2016 for my first real job, things were less than certain. Based in Erbil, I had no idea what the future was going to hold for me. Despite the uncertainty and not knowing what lay ahead, the positive atmosphere and welcoming vibes of Kurdistan reassured me that everything was going to be ok.
Despite armed groups being within an hour’s drive from Erbil and war raging throughout the rest of Iraq, Kurdistan always felt safe to me. Not one time, since having been here for over eight months, have I ever felt unsafe in the capital of the Kurdistan Region. No matter what my situation was, a local was always there to help me if needed. This feeling of being welcomed has led me to stay here and continue my career in the humanitarian field.
One of my favorite things about Kurdistan is how open it is. It is a place where you can be yourself, even if your cultural upbringing is much different from that of the local population. When I tell locals that I work for an NGO in the humanitarian field, everyone is so interested and happy to hear I am helping other people, both Kurds and Iraqis, even though there may be animosity between them. People are so accepting even if your religious views, life views, or political opinions are different from theirs. This is something you wouldn’t expect coming to the northern region of Iraq at such an unpredictable and unstable time in history.
Living in Erbil has really been a treat for me. I have made so many contacts, met so many new faces, and I have connected with local people as well as those from all over the world. Just an hour outside of Erbil, you can swim in some of the bluest waters, hike through amazing mountains, and make it back to the city before it gets dark to enjoy a cold beer in the local bar. Even when returning from areas outside of Kurdish control, I feel like I am coming home, to a safe place, when I cross the last military checkpoint heading back to Kirkuk, Erbil, or Duhok.
I love the smiles on the faces of the Peshmerga when I greet them and speak to them briefly in Kurdish at checkpoints. It’s really a great feeling in such a far off part of the world. I have always enjoyed the respectful nature of how you introduce yourself and greet someone here. Even more wonderful is how if you shake one hand out of the group, you have to shake everyone else’s. But my favorite is the two or three quick kisses on the cheek when you greet someone. This is something so different from anything I have experienced in America, but it has grown on me and I have become more comfortable with it as my time here in Kurdistan continues.
While Kurdistan may be unknown to many in the West, nothing can compare to the safety and uniqueness of this place. It truly is a rose among the thorns, especially in today’s ever changing political context. Even while hosting IDPs and refugees, and suffering from the drop in the price of oil, Kurdistan has still kept its doors open to investment, outsiders, and in turn, the world. It really is a special feeling to be here in such a fragile and complex time in history. I always wonder, when driving through Erbil, what the next ten years will hold for such an amazing and unique place that I have called my home for the past eight months.
Your average American will only hear Kurdistan in the news alongside images of war and destruction. This misleading label hurts this place, as there are no explosions, bombs, or signs of destruction here. Kurdistan truly has been so welcoming to me and has kept me safe in perilous times. I enjoy calling Erbil my second home and I know I will be here for a long time to come.
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