ERBIL, Kurdistan Region — Kurdish traditions, customs and food extend far beyond the borders of the Kurdistan Region and its surrounding populations of Kurds. Chiman Zebari, who has lived in the United States in diaspora since the Baathist era, has written a book on Kurdish food, and explained the role food plays in celebrating Newroz.
Zebari is from the city of Akre that boasts a famous waterfall at its center. Its surrounding mountains annually host one of the most impressive Newroz festivals as fires line the ridges and flags drape down their steep rocky faces.
But for Zebari coming to the United States didn’t mean forgetting her Kurdish roots.
“Although we are far from the festivities in Kurdistan, family and friends tell stories of hundreds of people gathered in the streets to jump over fire, exchange delicious Kurdish food with neighbors, friends and family,” she said.
Food is at the center of Newroz, the new year’s celebration observed by Kurds around March 20 every year. Zebari takes great pride in preserving authentic Kurdish dishes in diaspora in the United States.
The food doesn’t prepare itself — multi-layered pastries and stuffed dishes require a lot of time and work.
“It is somewhat time-consuming because food is a big part of the Newroz and we go all out, especially with pastries such as baklava and various kolicha,” she said. “There are some time consuming meals to prepare, such as dolma, kofta (like meatloaf in the shape of meatballs), kabobs, kibbeh (breaded meat patties).”
Being away from Kurdistan hasn’t hindered Zebari’s ability to find the ingredients she needs to create authentic dishes.
“We can find basically anything we need to prepare Kurdish meals here in the United States,” said Zebari, who lives near Washington, DC. “There are so many Mediterranean markets that we shop from and find almost everything we need. This is what is good about the US. ”
Families often can celebrate Newroz for two or three days in various public and private settings.
“The final day of Newroz is a time for families to drive to the countryside for day-long picnics with family and friends to revel in the fresh and warming air,” Zebari said.
Zebari explained that exposing non-Kurds to their culture, helps people work through and understand cultural differences.
“We have invited friends, coworkers and neighbors to observe Newroz. In the US we always have a huge party that the community holds which includes food and dance,” she said.
“Also we get to sing the Kurdish anthem and remember the martyrs who scarified their lives for our freedom. The American friends (non-Kurds) love our tradition and they enjoy the dance and the food very much. This is another way of lobbying for the Kurds abroad.”
The holiday has special significance as a woman, Zebari says, because it’s associated with renewal and rebirth.
“As a woman, Newroz to me is important because it celebrates renewal and rebirth, symbolized by the coming of spring,” she said.
“It is partly rooted in the Zoroastrian tradition, but is an ancient holiday that was celebrated thousands of years ago. Now, it is also an important Kurdish cultural holiday that spans many religious traditions.”
Zebari believes it is her duty to pass on Kurdish traditions to the next generation of Kurds, and Newroz affords that opportunity to Kurds.
“We Kurds have done a great job here in the US preserving our culture and keeping our identity,” she said.
“I also think that we can do better as a community to teach our children and grandchildren to build a lobby for preserving our culture and identity. For me as a first generation it’s easier to preserve my identity, but it is my duty to also pass this on to those who are left after I am gone.”
Millions of Kurds live around the world in diaspora. At various times, Kurds immigrated to or sought refuge in the United States. Zebari has written a book entitled ‘My Life, My Food, My Kurdistan.’
“It describes how I came to be a refugee in the United States, my family background,” she said, “and also importantly, shares several tasty Kurdish recipes.”
