Traditional faranji coats keep Kurds of Hawraman warm through winter

Tucked into the hills of Hawraman, Wasta Ali has been making the local traditional coat known as a "faranji" for 45 years at his home.

The handmade garments are made of sheep skin and wool and also called "pastas" or "kullaballs" (short-sleeved).

'Wasta' is a respected title that means maker in Kurdish. Wasta Ali Amin sources materials from Kurdish areas of Iran.

"I get my material from Bokan, Bana, Saqiz and Kermanshah. I clean them here and take them to factories afterwards. Then I bring them home again and make hats and cummerbunds. Or sometimes a client comes and takes it as it is," he said.

Prices can range from 60,000 dinars up to 300,000 dinars (about $250). 

The process is tedious and involves compressing the wool until it is thick to protect against the cold winters in the Kurdish mountains. 

"This is warm for the winter. For backache it’s a good remedy. People who have worn this know that their kidneys will never suffer," explained Amin of the body organ Kurds most protect in cold weather. 

For some the faranji is for warmth. For others it is a piece of fashion to go over the rest of the outfit.

There is still a small market for faranjis, despite modern winter coats being prevalent and cheaper in Kurdistan.

"Faranjis show the authenticity of the Hawraman culture. Back in those days there were no coats in Hawraman and their only means of warmth was the faranji," said a customer, Muhammad Ibrahimi.

In the snowy mountains goods are often traded by kolbars who use the faranjis for warmth and back support.

"Not only in winter, but in other times they’ve used the faranji while carrying home herbs and firewood from the mountains. In addition, this is a beautiful fashion and goes well with pants and shirts or the Kurdish set," he added.

 

Hawraman is east of Halabja and straddles Kurdistan's Iran-Iraq border.